Bee and pollinator garden

{{whyLabel}}: Pollinators like butterflies and bees are cold-blooded and require sun to warm their flight muscles, while plants need specific conditions to thrive.

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• Monitor your chosen area for a full day to ensure it receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight.
• Dig a 12-inch hole, fill it with water, and ensure it drains within 2–6 hours (well-drained soil).
• Identify your soil type (sandy, clay, or loamy) by the 'squeeze test'—clay stays in a ball, sand falls apart.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a confirmed garden location with documented sun hours and soil type.

{{whyLabel}}: Native plants have co-evolved with local bees and provide significantly more high-quality nectar and pollen than non-native ornamentals.

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• Use the '3x3x3 System': Choose 3 species for Spring (e.g., Golden Alexanders, Wild Columbine), 3 for Summer (e.g., Bee Balm, Purple Coneflower), and 3 for Fall (e.g., New England Aster, Goldenrod).
• Prioritize 'Keystone Plants' like Milkweed (Asclepias) which are essential for specialists like Monarchs.
• Ensure all plants are 'straight species' rather than 'cultivars' (often labeled 'Nativars') to guarantee accessible nectar.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A written list of 9 native plant species is ready for sourcing.

{{whyLabel}}: Pollinators find food more efficiently when plants are grouped in large 'drifts' of color rather than scattered individually.

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• Draw your garden bed to scale (an 8x4 foot area is ideal for a beginner 27-plant garden).
• Group at least 3 individuals of each species together in clusters of 3–5 feet.
• Place taller plants (like Joe Pye Weed) in the back/center and shorter ones (like Violets) at the edges.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A visual map showing the placement of all 27 plants (3 of each of the 9 species).

{{whyLabel}}: This 'no-dig' method kills grass and weeds without chemicals or destroying the soil microbiome.

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• Mow the existing grass as short as possible.
• Cover the area with a thick layer of plain brown cardboard (remove all tape/staples).
• Overlap edges by 6 inches to prevent weeds from peeking through.
• Wet the cardboard thoroughly and cover with 3 inches of organic compost.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The garden area is fully covered with cardboard and compost.

{{whyLabel}}: Many commercial plants are treated with neonicotinoids, which are systemic neurotoxins that kill bees when they consume the nectar.

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• Visit a specialized native plant nursery or search for 'native plant sales' from local conservation groups.
• Explicitly ask the vendor: 'Have these been treated with neonicotinoids or systemic insecticides?'
• Buy 'plugs' (small starter plants) instead of large pots to save money and allow for better root establishment.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: 27 healthy, pesticide-free native plants are on-site.

{{whyLabel}}: Proper planting technique ensures high survival rates and rapid growth.

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• Cut small holes through the cardboard layer at your mapped locations.
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep.
• Gently loosen the roots if they are 'pot-bound' (circling the pot).
• Backfill with native soil and press firmly to remove air pockets.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All 27 plants are in the ground according to the design map.

{{whyLabel}}: Bees need water for hydration and to cool their hives, but they can drown in deep water.

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• Place a shallow ceramic saucer or birdbath in a shaded spot near the flowers.
• Fill it with stones or marbles that break the surface of the water.
• Add water only up to the halfway point of the stones so bees have a dry landing spot.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A functional water source with visible landing stones is installed.

{{whyLabel}}: 70% of native bees nest in the ground and cannot dig through thick mulch or landscape fabric.

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• Identify a small, sunny, well-drained patch (approx. 2x2 feet) at the edge of the garden.
• Remove all mulch, grass, and debris from this area to expose bare soil.
• Keep this area undisturbed and avoid walking on it to prevent compacting the tunnels.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A clear patch of bare, unmulched soil is visible.

{{whyLabel}}: Cavity-nesting bees like Mason and Leafcutter bees need pre-existing tunnels to lay their eggs.

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• Mount a bee house 3–5 feet off the ground on a south-facing wall or post.
• Ensure it has a 'roof' to keep rain out and that the tubes are at least 6 inches deep.
• Use paper straws or hollow reeds that can be replaced annually to prevent disease buildup.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A bee hotel is securely mounted and facing the morning sun.

{{whyLabel}}: New plants need consistent moisture for the first 4–8 weeks to develop deep, resilient root systems.

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• Water at the base of the plants (avoiding foliage) early in the morning.
• Provide about 1 inch of water per week if there is no rain.
• Check soil moisture by sticking a finger 2 inches deep; if dry, water again.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Plants show new growth and do not wilt during the day.

{{whyLabel}}: Many pollinators overwinter in leaf litter or hollow plant stems; 'cleaning' the garden in fall kills them.

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• Leave all dead flower stems standing until spring (when temperatures are consistently above 50°F/10°C).
• Allow fallen leaves to remain in the garden beds as natural mulch and habitat.
• Avoid using leaf blowers, which can physically damage hibernating insects.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Stems and leaves are left in place throughout the winter season.