Board game design hobby

{{whyLabel}}: The core loop is the repetitive sequence of actions that forms the heartbeat of your game.

{{howLabel}}:

• Identify the 3-5 primary actions a player takes every turn (e.g., Draw, Move, Attack).
• Ensure these actions directly lead to the game's winning condition.
• Write this loop down in three sentences or less.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a clear, written description of what a player does on a typical turn.

{{whyLabel}}: Mechanics are the building blocks that provide structure to your theme.

{{howLabel}}:

• Choose one 'anchor' mechanic from 'Building Blocks of Tabletop Game Design' by Geoffrey Engelstein (e.g., Worker Placement, Deck Building, or Area Control).
• Avoid 'feature creep' by sticking to one main mechanic for your first design.
• Map out how this mechanic interacts with your core loop.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: One primary mechanic is chosen and documented as the game's foundation.

{{whyLabel}}: Designing for the player's experience ensures the game is engaging, not just functional.

{{howLabel}}:

• Read the 'Lens of the Player' chapter in 'The Art of Game Design' by Jesse Schell.
• Ask yourself: 'What is the most exciting moment for the player?'
• Adjust your concept to highlight that specific feeling (e.g., tension, triumph, or discovery).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a list of 3 'emotional goals' for your players.

{{whyLabel}}: A concise document keeps your vision focused during the messy prototyping phase.

{{howLabel}}:

• Include: Title (working), Player Count (start with 2-4), Duration (aim for 30-60 mins), and the 'Hook' (what makes it unique).
• List the winning conditions clearly.
• Keep it to a single page to avoid over-complicating the initial idea.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A one-page summary of your game concept is completed.

{{whyLabel}}: Having generic components ready allows you to iterate quickly without waiting for custom parts.

{{howLabel}}:

• Gather index cards, card sleeves, and a permanent marker.
• Source generic 'meeples', wooden cubes, and multi-sided dice (d6, d10, d20).
• Use 'blank' components so you aren't afraid to write on them or throw them away.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a box containing enough basic components to build a full game.

{{whyLabel}}: The MVP is the ugliest, fastest version of your game used to test the core fun.

{{howLabel}}:

• Scrawl card names and basic stats on index cards with a marker.
• Use a piece of poster board or taped-together paper for the board.
• Focus 100% on functionality; do NOT draw art or use fancy fonts yet.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A playable (though ugly) version of the game is on the table.

{{whyLabel}}: Solo testing catches 80% of mechanical breaks before you waste a playtester's time.

{{howLabel}}:

• Play the game as two or three different players, making the best move for each.
• Use 'selective amnesia'—don't let Player A's knowledge influence Player B's turn.
• Note where the game 'stalls' or where rules feel ambiguous.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have completed one full game session by yourself.

{{whyLabel}}: Even for early tests, you need a reference to ensure consistency.

{{howLabel}}:

• Write down the Setup, Turn Sequence, and End Game conditions in bullet points.
• Keep it under 2 pages.
• Use bold text for key terms to make them easy to find during play.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A printed or handwritten set of basic rules is ready for the first playtest.

{{whyLabel}}: Friends provide a safe environment to see how others interpret your mechanics.

{{howLabel}}:

• Explain the rules clearly but let them play without your interference.
• Watch their faces: Where do they look bored? Where do they look excited?
• Ask: 'What was the most frustrating part?' rather than 'Did you like it?'

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have notes from a playtest with at least two other people.

{{whyLabel}}: Math ensures that no single strategy or card is objectively better than others.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use Google Sheets or Excel to list every card/action and its 'cost' vs 'benefit'.
• Calculate the 'Value per Action' (e.g., if 1 Gold = 1 Point, a card costing 2 Gold should give roughly 2 Points).
• Look for outliers (cards that are too cheap for their power).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A spreadsheet exists containing the stats of all game components.

{{whyLabel}}: Small tweaks are often hard to notice; drastic changes reveal the 'sweet spot' faster.

{{howLabel}}:

• If a mechanic feels too weak, double its power/value. If too strong, cut it in half.
• Observe the impact in the next playtest. It is much easier to dial back from an extreme than to find a 5% difference.
• Document the 'before' and 'after' values.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have adjusted at least three major values using this method.

{{whyLabel}}: Beginners often add too many rules; professional games are refined by what is removed.

{{howLabel}}:

• Identify any rule that players constantly forget or ask about.
• Remove one mechanic that isn't essential to the core loop.
• If the game still works without it, leave it out permanently.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The rulebook is shorter and the game flow is faster than the previous version.

{{whyLabel}}: Consistent layout (UI/UX) helps players process information faster.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use Inkscape (free/open-source) to create a standard card layout.
• Place the 'Cost' in the top left and 'Effect' text in the center.
• Use high-contrast colors and clear, sans-serif fonts (e.g., Roboto or Open Sans).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a digital template for your game's cards.

{{whyLabel}}: Manually updating 100 cards is soul-crushing; automation saves hundreds of hours.

{{howLabel}}:

• Connect your balancing spreadsheet to Dextrous.com.au (or use nanDECK).
• Map the spreadsheet columns to your card template fields.
• Generate all cards at once whenever you change a value in the spreadsheet.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A full deck of cards is generated digitally from your spreadsheet data.

{{whyLabel}}: A rulebook is the 'teacher' that comes in the box; it must be foolproof.

{{howLabel}}:

• Follow the standard structure: Components, Goal, Setup, Turn Structure, End Game.
• Include 'Examples of Play' for complex interactions.
• Use diagrams or screenshots of your prototype to illustrate setup.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A complete, formatted PDF rulebook is finished.

{{whyLabel}}: This is the ultimate test to see if your game can survive without you explaining it.

{{howLabel}}:

• Give a group of strangers your prototype and rulebook.
• Sit nearby but do NOT speak, even if they play wrong.
• Take notes on where they get stuck in the rules. This is your 'to-fix' list.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A group has completed the game using only the provided materials.

{{whyLabel}}: A sell sheet is a one-page marketing tool used to pitch to publishers or show at conventions.

{{howLabel}}:

• Include a high-quality photo of the game set up.
• List: Player count, Age, Time, and a '3-sentence pitch'.
• Highlight the 'Unique Selling Point' (USP) clearly.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A professional one-page PDF sell sheet is ready.

{{whyLabel}}: Digital prototypes allow for global playtesting and are often required by modern publishers.

{{howLabel}}:

• Export your card sheets and board as PNGs.
• Use the 'TTS Deck Builder' tool (included with the game) to create card files.
• Import assets into a TTS 'Custom' object and save the workshop mod.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Your game is playable online via Tabletop Simulator.

{{whyLabel}}: Having a high-quality physical copy is essential for final testing and conventions.

{{howLabel}}:

• Upload your final assets to a Print-on-Demand service like 'The Game Crafter' or 'MakePlayingCards'.
• Select standard component sizes (e.g., Poker cards, 18mm cubes) to keep costs down.
• Review the digital proofs carefully before clicking 'Order'.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A professional-grade prototype is ordered and on its way.