Dog grooming at home

{{whyLabel}}: Using the wrong brush can damage the skin or fail to remove deep mats.

{{howLabel}}:

• For long or curly coats: Get a slicker brush and a stainless steel greyhound comb.
• For short coats: Get a rubber curry brush or a soft bristle brush.
• For double coats: Get an undercoat rake to remove trapped dead hair.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have the correct tools for your dog's specific coat type.

{{whyLabel}}: Human shampoo has a different pH level and can cause skin infections; styptic powder is vital for stopping accidental nail bleeding.

{{howLabel}}:

• Select a pH-balanced dog shampoo (oatmeal-based is great for sensitive skin).
• Purchase styptic powder (e.g., Kwik Stop) to have on hand before you touch the nails.
• Avoid products with heavy artificial fragrances or dyes.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Both products are ready in your grooming kit.

{{whyLabel}}: Slippery surfaces cause anxiety and potential joint injuries if the dog panics.

{{howLabel}}:

• Place a rubber bath mat or a thick towel in the tub or on the grooming table.
• Ensure the area is well-lit so you can see the 'quick' in the nails clearly.
• Keep high-value treats nearby to reward calm behavior.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The grooming area is secure and slip-proof.

{{whyLabel}}: Water acts like glue on mats, making them nearly impossible to remove once wet.

{{howLabel}}:

• Work in sections, starting from the legs and moving upward.
• Use the line-brushing technique: pull the hair up and brush the layer underneath.
• Use the metal comb to check for hidden knots near the skin.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A comb can run through the entire coat without snagging.

{{whyLabel}}: Grooming is the best time to spot lumps, ticks, or skin irritations early.

{{howLabel}}:

• Run your hands over the dog's body to feel for unusual bumps.
• Part the hair to look for 'flea dirt' (black specks) or redness.
• Check 'hot spots' like the armpits, groin, and behind the ears.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have confirmed the skin is healthy or noted areas to discuss with a vet.

{{whyLabel}}: Hot water can burn sensitive skin, and improper rinsing causes itching.

{{howLabel}}:

• Test water on your inner wrist; it should be lukewarm, not hot.
• Wet the dog from the neck down; avoid getting water directly in ears or eyes.
• Massage shampoo into the skin, then rinse twice to ensure no residue remains.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The dog is clean and the water runs clear during the final rinse.

{{whyLabel}}: Leaving a coat damp can lead to 'hot spots' (bacterial skin infections) or fungal growth.

{{howLabel}}:

• Squeeze excess water out with a microfiber towel (don't rub vigorously).
• Use a hair dryer on the cool/low setting only.
• Keep the dryer moving constantly to avoid overheating any single spot.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The coat is dry to the touch, especially at the skin level.

{{whyLabel}}: Long nails cause skeletal misalignment and pain; cutting too deep (the quick) causes bleeding.

{{howLabel}}:

• Identify the quick (pink vein in white nails; a dark dot in the center of black nails).
• Cut tiny slivers at a time rather than one large chunk.
• If you see a moist, dark circle in the center of the nail, stop immediately.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Nails are short enough that they don't click on the floor.

{{whyLabel}}: Excess wax and moisture in ears can lead to painful yeast or bacterial infections.

{{howLabel}}:

• Apply a few drops of ear cleaner to a cotton ball (never use Q-tips inside the canal).
• Gently wipe the visible inner surface of the ear flap.
• If you notice a foul smell or heavy brown discharge, contact your vet.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The visible part of the ear is clean and dry.

{{whyLabel}}: Consistency prevents painful mats and overgrown nails from becoming a health crisis.

{{howLabel}}:

• Brushing: Daily for long/curly coats; weekly for short coats.
• Nails: Every 3–4 weeks.
• Bathing: Every 4–8 weeks (unless the dog gets visibly dirty).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have reminders set in your phone or physical calendar.