Energy audit home DIY

{{whyLabel}}: Understanding your historical usage helps identify seasonal spikes and establishes a baseline to measure future savings.

{{howLabel}}:

• Log into your utility provider's portal and download the last 12 months of electricity and gas/heating bills.
• Note the kilowatt-hours (kWh) and therms/units used each month.
• Identify which months have the highest usage to pinpoint if your main issue is heating, cooling, or base-load electricity.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a list or spreadsheet showing monthly energy consumption for the past year.

{{whyLabel}}: A visual map allows you to mark problem areas like drafts or cold spots systematically during the walkthrough.

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• Draw a basic layout of each floor, including windows, doors, and major appliances.
• Label each room and indicate the direction of north (north-facing walls are often colder).
• Use this sketch to take notes during the physical audit.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A paper or digital floor plan is ready for annotations.

{{whyLabel}}: Having the right tools ready prevents interruptions and ensures accurate detection of energy leaks.

{{howLabel}}:

• Gather a flashlight for dark corners/attics.
• Get a stick of incense or a thin candle to detect air currents.
• Find a tape measure to check insulation thickness.
• Optional: Use a digital infrared thermometer for precise surface temperature readings.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All tools are gathered in a portable bag or bucket.

{{whyLabel}}: Creating a pressure difference makes even tiny air leaks visible by pulling outside air through cracks.

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• Close all windows, exterior doors, and fireplace flues.
• Turn on all exhaust fans (bathroom, kitchen, clothes dryer).
• This creates a slight vacuum, making drafts much easier to feel or see with smoke.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The house is pressurized and ready for the draft walk-through.

{{whyLabel}}: Air leakage through windows and doors can account for up to 20% of heating and cooling costs.

{{howLabel}}:

• Slowly move a lit incense stick around the edges of every window and door frame.
• Watch for smoke wavering or blowing horizontally.
• Perform the 'dollar bill test': Close a door/window on a bill; if it pulls out easily, the seal is poor.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All leaky windows and doors are marked on your floor plan.

{{whyLabel}}: The attic is the most critical area for heat loss; most older homes are significantly under-insulated.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use a ladder to access the attic and a tape measure to check the insulation height.
• In 2025/2026, recommended levels are R-49 to R-60 (approx. 15-20 inches of fiberglass or cellulose).
• If you see the wooden floor joists, you definitely need more insulation.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have recorded the average insulation depth in inches.

{{whyLabel}}: The area where the house frame meets the foundation is a major source of cold air infiltration.

{{howLabel}}:

• Go into the basement or crawlspace and look at the perimeter (rim joists).
• Look for gaps, spider webs (indicating air flow), or visible daylight.
• Feel for cold air coming in at the top of the foundation wall.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Rim joist gaps are identified and noted.

{{whyLabel}}: Outlets on exterior walls often lack insulation behind them, allowing cold air to enter the living space.

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• Hold your hand or an incense stick near outlets and light switches on walls that face the outside.
• Note which ones feel drafty; these can be fixed easily with inexpensive foam gaskets.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A list of drafty outlets is created.

{{whyLabel}}: Dirty filters and leaky ducts force your system to work harder, increasing energy use by up to 15%.

{{howLabel}}:

• Check the air filter; if it's grey or clogged, it needs replacement (standard is every 60-90 days).
• Inspect visible ductwork in the attic or basement for 'dirt streaks' which indicate air leaks.
• Feel for blowing air at duct joints while the system is running.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Filter status is checked and duct leaks are located.

{{whyLabel}}: Most manufacturers set heaters to 140°F, which wastes energy and poses a scalding risk.

{{howLabel}}:

• Locate the thermostat dial on your water heater (may be behind a small panel).
• Turn it down to 120°F (49°C).
• This can save up to 10% on water heating costs annually.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The water heater is set to the energy-efficient 120°F mark.

{{whyLabel}}: Heat is lost as water travels from the tank; insulating the initial run keeps water hotter for longer.

{{howLabel}}:

• Identify the hot water outlet pipe leaving the heater.
• Measure the first 6 feet (approx. 2 meters).
• Plan to install generic foam pipe sleeves over these sections.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Pipe measurements are taken for material purchase.

{{whyLabel}}: Worn door seals allow cold air to escape, making the compressor run constantly.

{{howLabel}}:

• Close the refrigerator door on a piece of paper or a dollar bill.
• Try to pull it out. If it slides out without resistance, the gasket is failing.
• Repeat this at several points around the door seal.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Refrigerator seal integrity is verified.

{{whyLabel}}: Lighting accounts for ~15% of home electricity; LEDs use 75% less energy than incandescents.

{{howLabel}}:

• Walk through every room and count bulbs that are NOT LEDs (look for old spirals or round glass bulbs).
• Note the socket type (e.g., E26/E27) and brightness (Lumens).
• Prioritize replacing the 5 most-used bulbs first for the fastest ROI.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a shopping list for LED replacements.

{{whyLabel}}: You cannot fix everything at once; focusing on high-impact, low-cost items yields the best results.

{{howLabel}}:

• Rank your findings: 1. Air Sealing (Caulk/Weatherstripping), 2. Attic Insulation, 3. LED Lighting, 4. HVAC Maintenance.
• Estimate costs for materials (generic caulk, foam, weatherstripping).
• Schedule the 'Quick Wins' (sealing and lighting) for the upcoming weekend.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A prioritized list of energy-saving projects is finalized.

{{whyLabel}}: Adjusting your thermostat by 7-10°F for 8 hours a day can save up to 10% a year on bills.

{{howLabel}}:

• Set the temperature to 68°F (20°C) in winter and 78°F (25°C) in summer while you are home.
• Program a 'setback' for when you are sleeping or away (lower in winter, higher in summer).
• If you don't have a programmable thermostat, consider installing a generic smart model.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A 7-day energy-saving schedule is active on your thermostat.

{{whyLabel}}: About 90% of the energy used by a washing machine goes toward heating the water.

{{howLabel}}:

• Switch your default laundry setting to 'Cold' or 'Eco'.
• Modern detergents are designed to work effectively in cold water.
• Only use hot water for sanitizing items like towels or bedding when necessary.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The washing machine dial is set to cold for the next load.

{{whyLabel}}: Electronics in standby mode can account for up to 10% of your electricity bill.

{{howLabel}}:

• Identify 'vampire' devices: TVs, game consoles, chargers, and coffee makers with clocks.
• Plug these into a generic power strip with an on/off switch.
• Make it a habit to click the switch off when the devices are not in use, especially at night.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Major electronics are connected to switchable power strips.