Home inspection checklist

{{whyLabel}}: Buying a home often involves immediate hidden costs; having a dedicated fund prevents financial strain after closing.

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• Calculate 1% to 3% of the home's purchase price as a 'contingency fund'.
• Separate this amount from your down payment and closing costs.
• Use this budget to prioritize safety-critical repairs found during inspection.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [A specific dollar amount is set aside in a savings account].

{{whyLabel}}: Having the right tools allows you to spot issues that are invisible to the naked eye, such as moisture or faulty wiring.

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• Pack a high-lumen LED flashlight for dark corners and attics.
• Include a non-contact voltage tester or a GFCI outlet tester.
• Bring a digital moisture meter to check for hidden leaks behind drywall.
• Carry a notepad or tablet to document every finding with photos.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Toolkit is packed and ready for the walkthrough].

{{whyLabel}}: Poor grading is the leading cause of basement dampness and foundation failure.

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• Check that the ground slopes away from the foundation (at least 6 inches of drop over 10 feet).
• Look for 'spongy' soil or standing water near the walls.
• Ensure downspouts extend at least 5 feet away from the house.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [The exterior grading and drainage status are documented].

{{whyLabel}}: A roof replacement is one of the most expensive home repairs, often costing $10,000 to $30,000.

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• Use binoculars to look for curled, missing, or 'bald' shingles (loss of granules).
• Check for rusted flashing around chimneys and vents.
• Inspect gutters for sagging, leaks, or excessive debris buildup.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Roof age and condition are noted in the checklist].

{{whyLabel}}: Structural repairs are critical 'deal-breakers' that can compromise the entire building's safety.

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• Look for horizontal cracks or 'stair-step' cracks in brickwork, which indicate serious shifting.
• Check for vertical hairline cracks (often normal settling) vs. cracks wider than 1/4 inch.
• Inspect for 'efflorescence' (white powdery residue), which indicates chronic water intrusion.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Foundation integrity is visually verified and recorded].

{{whyLabel}}: Sticking doors or failed window seals indicate either foundation movement or high energy loss.

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• Open and close every window to ensure smooth operation and functional locks.
• Check for 'fogging' between double-pane glass, which signals a broken seal.
• Verify that doors stay in place when half-open (if they swing, the house may be unlevel).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [All windows and doors have been tested].

{{whyLabel}}: Water damage leads to mold and rot, which are often hidden behind fresh paint.

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• Look for yellow or brown staining on ceilings, especially under bathrooms.
• Use your moisture meter on any suspicious spots or 'bubbling' paint.
• Check the corners of rooms for musty odors or dark spots (mold signs).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [All interior surfaces are scanned for water intrusion].

{{whyLabel}}: Proper insulation (R-49 to R-60 in modern standards) significantly reduces utility bills and prevents ice dams.

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• Measure the depth of the insulation (should be 15-20 inches deep for modern efficiency).
• Look for blocked soffit vents that prevent air circulation.
• Check for signs of pests (droppings, chewed wires) or daylight through the roof boards.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Attic condition and insulation depth are documented].

{{whyLabel}}: These areas are the most common sources of mold and structural rot.

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• Check for damp smells or visible standing water.
• Inspect wooden floor joists for 'softness' or wood-destroying insect damage.
• Verify that the sump pump (if present) triggers when the float is lifted.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Basement/crawlspace is confirmed dry and structurally sound].

{{whyLabel}}: Outdated panels (like Federal Pacific or Zinsco) are fire hazards and may be uninsurable.

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• Check the main breaker for amperage (100A is minimum, 200A is preferred for modern homes).
• Look for 'double-tapped' breakers (two wires in one slot) or charred wires.
• Verify that all circuits are clearly labeled.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Panel capacity and safety status are recorded].

{{whyLabel}}: Future-proofing your home now saves thousands in electrical upgrades later.

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• Check for a 240V outlet in the garage or space in the panel for a 50A breaker.
• Locate the central 'hub' for internet wiring (Cat6 cabling is the 2025 standard).
• Identify if smart thermostats or doorbells are hardwired or battery-operated.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Modern infrastructure readiness is assessed].

{{whyLabel}}: HVAC systems last 15-20 years; knowing the age helps you plan for a $5,000+ replacement.

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• Locate the manufacture date on the unit's nameplate.
• Turn on the heat and A/C to ensure they respond within 5 minutes.
• Check the air filter; a filthy filter suggests poor maintenance of the entire system.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [HVAC age and operational status are confirmed].

{{whyLabel}}: Hidden leaks or outdated pipe materials (like polybutylene) can lead to catastrophic floods.

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• Run multiple faucets simultaneously to check for a significant drop in pressure.
• Look under every sink for active leaks or water-damaged cabinetry.
• Identify pipe material (Copper/PEX is good; Lead or Galvanized Steel needs replacement).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Plumbing system is verified leak-free with adequate pressure].

{{whyLabel}}: A failing water heater can cause significant water damage if it bursts.

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• Check the age (average lifespan is 10-12 years).
• Look for rust at the bottom of the tank or signs of leaking at the valves.
• Ensure a 'T&P' (Temperature and Pressure) relief valve is installed and piped correctly.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [Water heater condition and age are documented].

{{whyLabel}}: A professional has specialized tools (thermal cameras, sewer scopes) that a buyer does not.

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• Select an inspector certified by ASHI or InterNACHI.
• Request a sample report to ensure it includes photos and clear 'Action Items'.
• Schedule the inspection within your contract's contingency period (usually 7-10 days).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [A professional inspection is booked].

{{whyLabel}}: Not all issues are equal; you must separate cosmetic flaws from structural or safety hazards.

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• Highlight 'Major Defects' (Foundation, Roof, Electrical, HVAC, Mold).
• Ignore minor 'wear and tear' items like scuffed paint or loose doorknobs.
• Ask the inspector for clarification on any 'deferred maintenance' items.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [A prioritized list of major issues is created].

{{whyLabel}}: Findings are only useful if they lead to a price reduction or repairs paid by the seller.

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• Get 2-3 contractor quotes for major repairs found (e.g., a new roof).
• Ask for a 'Closing Credit' instead of repairs so you can control the quality of work.
• Focus your request on safety and structural items to increase the chance of seller approval.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: [A formal negotiation document is sent to the seller's agent].