HVAC maintenance schedule

{{whyLabel}}: Clogged filters restrict airflow, forcing the system to work harder, increasing energy bills and risking motor failure.

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• Locate the filter slot (usually near the return air duct or furnace).
• Check the size printed on the side (e.g., 20x25x1).
• Use a MERV 8 to MERV 11 filter for a balance of filtration and airflow.
• Insert the new filter with the arrow pointing toward the unit.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A clean, correctly sized filter is installed and the date is written on the frame.

{{whyLabel}}: Leaves, grass clippings, and dirt can block heat transfer, causing the compressor to overheat.

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• Maintain a 2-foot (60 cm) clearance around the unit.
• Trim back shrubs or overhanging branches.
• Remove any trapped leaves or twigs from the base of the unit by hand.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The area around the outdoor unit is clear of all vegetation and debris.

{{whyLabel}}: Algae and mold can clog the drain line, leading to water damage in your home or a system shutdown.

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• Locate the PVC drain pipe near the indoor unit.
• Remove the cap and pour about 1 cup of distilled white vinegar down the line to kill growth.
• If standing water is present, use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out the clog from the outside exit point.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The drain line is clear and vinegar has been applied to prevent future growth.

{{whyLabel}}: Dirty coils reduce the system's ability to release heat, significantly lowering cooling efficiency.

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• Turn off the power at the outdoor disconnect box.
• Use a garden hose with a gentle spray (never a pressure washer) to wash away dirt from the outside in.
• If heavily soiled, apply a generic foaming coil cleaner and let it sit for 10 minutes before rinsing.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The metal fins on the outdoor unit are free of visible dirt and grime.

{{whyLabel}}: Bent fins block airflow through the coils, reducing the unit's cooling capacity.

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• Inspect the exterior aluminum fins for flattened areas.
• Use a fin comb tool that matches the fins-per-inch (FPI) of your unit.
• Gently pull the comb through the bent sections to realign them.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All aluminum fins are straight and parallel to allow maximum airflow.

{{whyLabel}}: Ensuring the burners ignite cleanly prevents fuel buildup and potential safety hazards.

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• Switch the thermostat to 'Heat' and set it 5 degrees above room temperature.
• Listen for the igniter click or see the glow.
• Observe the flames; they should be steady and blue. Yellow or flickering flames indicate a combustion issue requiring a pro.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The furnace ignites promptly and produces a steady blue flame.

{{whyLabel}}: A cracked heat exchanger can leak deadly carbon monoxide (CO) into your home's air supply.

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• Use a high-lumen flashlight to look for visible cracks, heavy rust, or soot inside the furnace cabinet.
• Note: This is a visual check only; a professional uses specialized cameras for a full inspection.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A visual inspection is completed and no obvious structural damage is found.

{{whyLabel}}: Detectors are your last line of defense against odorless, colorless CO leaks from heating systems.

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• Locate all CO detectors (ideally one on every floor and near sleeping areas).
• Replace old batteries with fresh alkaline or lithium batteries.
• Press the 'Test' button to ensure the alarm sounds.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All CO detectors have fresh batteries and pass the audible test.

{{whyLabel}}: Professionals check refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and motor health that are not safe for DIY.

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• Book a technician in the 'off-season' (early Spring or early Fall) for better rates.
• Ensure they perform a 'multi-point inspection' including amp draw tests on motors and refrigerant pressure checks.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A certified technician has inspected the system and provided a written report.

{{whyLabel}}: Friction in older motors causes overheating and premature failure.

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• Check your owner's manual to see if your blower motor or fan motor has oil ports.
• Apply 2-3 drops of SAE 20 non-detergent oil to each port.
• Note: Most modern motors are 'permanently lubricated' and do not require this.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Applicable motors are lubricated according to manufacturer specifications.