Native plants landscaping

{{whyLabel}}: Clear goals prevent impulse buys and ensure your landscape serves a specific purpose, like supporting pollinators or reducing water runoff.

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• Decide if you want to prioritize bird habitat, specialist bee support, or low-maintenance groundcover.
• Consider the 'Homegrown National Park' concept: aim for 70% native biomass to sustain local food webs.
• Write down 3 key outcomes (e.g., 'Support Monarch butterflies', 'Stop erosion on the slope').

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a written list of 2-3 specific ecological priorities.

{{whyLabel}}: Ecoregions are more accurate than hardiness zones because they account for soil, geology, and climate, ensuring plants are truly 'native' to your spot.

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• Use the EPA interactive ecoregion map to find your specific code (e.g., 8.1 Mixed Wood Plains).
• Note the typical natural community of your area (e.g., Oak-Hickory forest or Tallgrass prairie).
• Use this code when searching databases like the NWF Native Plant Finder.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You know your specific Ecoregion number and name.

{{whyLabel}}: Native plants are highly specialized; a 'Full Sun' prairie plant will fail in a 'Part Shade' woodland edge.

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• Observe your yard at 9 AM, 12 PM, and 4 PM.
• Mark areas as Full Sun (6+ hours), Part Shade (4-6 hours), or Full Shade (<4 hours).
• Note 'microclimates' like heat-reflecting walls or wind-swept corners.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a rough sketch of your yard with sun/shade zones marked.

{{whyLabel}}: Knowing if you have clay, sand, or loam determines which native root systems (taproots vs. fibrous) will thrive.

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• Fill a glass jar 1/3 with soil and the rest with water; shake vigorously.
• Let it settle for 24 hours: sand settles first, then silt, then clay.
• Calculate the percentages to identify your soil type using a soil triangle chart.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have identified your soil texture (e.g., 'Sandy Loam').

{{whyLabel}}: Keystone trees like Oaks (Quercus) support over 500 species of caterpillars, which are the primary food source for 96% of terrestrial birds.

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• Use the NWF Native Plant Finder to find top-ranked woody genera for your zip code.
• Prioritize Oaks (Quercus), Cherries (Prunus), or Willows (Salix) if space allows.
• Choose species that match your soil (e.g., Swamp White Oak for wet clay, Black Oak for dry sand).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a list of 3 tree species suited to your ecoregion.

{{whyLabel}}: A few genera (Goldenrods, Asters, Sunflowers) do 90% of the work in supporting specialist bees and butterflies.

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• Select at least one species from the Solidago (Goldenrod) and Symphyotrichum (Aster) genera for late-season nectar.
• Add a Helianthus (Sunflower) or Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) for mid-summer support.
• Ensure you have a 'bloom sequence' from spring through late fall.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a list of 5 perennial species with staggered bloom times.

{{whyLabel}}: Seeing mature native plants helps you understand their true size, habit, and how they look in a landscape setting.

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• Locate a botanical garden or nature center that features a 'Native Plant' section.
• Take photos of plant combinations you find attractive.
• Note which plants are buzzing with the most insect activity.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have visited a garden and taken reference photos.

{{whyLabel}}: Layering (Canopy, Understory, Herbaceous, Groundcover) mimics nature, maximizes space, and provides diverse niches for wildlife.

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• Place tall trees first, then shrubs (like Viburnums or Elderberries).
• Fill the ground layer with 'Green Mulch' (sedges or low-growing perennials) to suppress weeds.
• Plan for 'Soft Landings'—planted areas under trees where caterpillars can safely pupate in leaf litter.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a planting plan showing the vertical layers.

{{whyLabel}}: This 'no-dig' method kills grass and weeds while building soil health and preserving the fungal networks native plants rely on.

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• Mow the grass as short as possible in your designated area.
• Cover with a thick layer of plain brown cardboard (remove all tape/staples).
• Top with 3-4 inches of organic wood chips or shredded leaves.
• Wait 2-4 months for the grass to decompose, or cut holes to plant immediately.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The planting area is covered in cardboard and mulch.

{{whyLabel}}: Local nurseries provide 'local genotypes'—plants genetically adapted to your specific climate—and avoid neonicotinoid pesticides.

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• Search for nurseries that specialize EXCLUSIVELY in native plants.
• Ask if their plants are grown from local seeds (within 100-200 miles).
• Avoid 'cultivars' (e.g., 'Double-flowered' versions) as they often provide less nectar/pollen.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have purchased your plants from a reputable native source.

{{whyLabel}}: Bees are more efficient when they can find a large 'target' of the same flower species rather than searching for single scattered plants.

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• Group at least 3-5 individuals of the same species together.
• Space them according to their mature width to allow for 'Green Mulch' coverage.
• Water each plant immediately after putting it in the ground to settle the soil.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All plants are installed in grouped clusters.

{{whyLabel}}: Even drought-tolerant natives need supplemental water for the first 1-2 years until their deep root systems are established.

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• Water deeply (1 inch per week) rather than frequent shallow sprinkles.
• Check soil moisture 2 inches down; if dry, water at the base of the plant.
• Reduce watering gradually as the plants show new growth and vigor.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have a weekly watering routine for the first season.

{{whyLabel}}: Many beneficial insects (fireflies, bumblebees, moths) overwinter in leaf litter; removing it destroys the next generation.

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• Instead of bagging leaves, rake them into your native plant beds as free mulch.
• Aim for a 2-3 inch layer; it suppresses weeds and feeds the soil.
• If you must clear a lawn, move the leaves to the 'Soft Landing' zones under trees.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Leaves are utilized as mulch in garden beds rather than discarded.

{{whyLabel}}: Native plants are adapted to local soils and don't need fertilizer; pesticides kill the very pollinators you are trying to attract.

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• Stop using 'Weed and Feed' products on adjacent lawn areas.
• Use compost if soil needs a boost, but generally, let leaf litter do the work.
• Accept 'leaf damage' as a sign of success—it means your plants are feeding the food web.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You have disposed of chemical garden products safely.

{{whyLabel}}: Many native bees nest in hollow stems; cutting them back too early in spring kills the emerging bees.

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• Wait until temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C) for at least a week.
• When you do cut back stems, leave 12-18 inches of stubble for next year's nesters.
• Chop and drop the cut material back onto the soil surface.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Stems are left standing through winter and cut back only in late spring.