Stained glass beginner

{{whyLabel}}: Glass work creates sharp shards and requires a heat-resistant surface.

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• Use a sturdy table at waist height.
• Cover it with a 'waffle grid' to catch glass shards or a sheet of unfinished plywood.
• Ensure the area is well-lit with a shadow-free LED lamp.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A stable, dedicated workspace is ready.

{{whyLabel}}: Protecting your eyes from glass chips and lungs from lead fumes is non-negotiable.

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• Get impact-resistant safety glasses.
• Purchase an N95 or P100 respirator rated for lead fumes.
• Keep a basic first aid kit nearby for minor cuts.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All PPE is present and fits correctly.

{{whyLabel}}: Soldering releases lead and flux fumes that must be moved away from your breathing zone.

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• Position a smoke absorber/fume extractor directly behind your soldering area.
• Alternatively, set up a fan to blow air across your work and out an open window.
• Never work in a completely sealed room.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Airflow is visibly moving fumes away from the user.

{{whyLabel}}: These are the primary tools for shaping glass.

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• Choose a 'pistol-grip' carbide wheel cutter for better ergonomics.
• Get 'running pliers' for breaking long straight scores.
• Get 'grozing pliers' for nibbling away small edges.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Cutter and both types of pliers are on the workbench.

{{whyLabel}}: Stained glass requires consistent high heat that standard electronics irons cannot provide.

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• Look for a 100-watt temperature-controlled iron.
• Ensure it has a 1/4 inch (6mm) chisel tip.
• Get a heavy-duty iron stand with a cleaning sponge or brass wire.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Soldering iron and stand are tested and functional.

{{whyLabel}}: Grinding smooths sharp edges and ensures pieces fit perfectly together.

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• Select a basic model with a water reservoir to keep the bit cool.
• Ensure it comes with a standard 3/4 inch diamond bit.
• Buy 'grinding thumbs' (rubber protectors) to save your skin.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Grinder is assembled and the reservoir is filled.

{{whyLabel}}: You need specific materials that react correctly with heat and chemicals.

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• Buy a 'beginner scrap pack' of Cathedral (transparent) glass.
• Get 60/40 tin/lead solder (standard for hobbyists).
• Purchase 7/32 inch copper foil and liquid or gel flux.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All raw materials are organized in the workspace.

{{whyLabel}}: Scoring is about creating a controlled fracture, not cutting through the glass.

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• Hold the cutter upright and apply firm, even pressure.
• Listen for a consistent 'zipping' sound.
• Score only once; never go over the same line twice.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: 10 clean, straight breaks achieved on scrap glass.

{{whyLabel}}: Most artistic patterns involve curves which require different wrist mobility.

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• Draw 'S' shapes on glass with a marker.
• Follow the line slowly, rotating the glass or your body to maintain the angle.
• Use the ball end of the cutter to tap the back of the score to help the crack travel.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: 5 successful curved pieces cut without accidental breaks.

{{whyLabel}}: Grinding creates a matte surface that allows copper foil to adhere properly.

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• Keep the grinder sponge wet at all times.
• Move the glass gently against the bit; don't force it.
• Grind until the edge is uniform and no longer razor-sharp.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Two pieces of glass fit together with less than a 1mm gap.

{{whyLabel}}: Solder only sticks to metal; the foil provides the 'skeleton' for the solder.

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• Center the glass edge on the adhesive side of the foil.
• Wrap it tightly around the perimeter.
• Use a 'fid' or plastic tool to press the foil flat against the glass faces (burnishing).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Foil is perfectly smooth with no wrinkles or lifting.

{{whyLabel}}: Complex shapes lead to frustration for beginners.

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• Choose a design with 5-8 pieces (e.g., a simple star, mountain, or tulip).
• Avoid deep 'inside' curves which are difficult to cut.
• Print two copies: one to cut up as templates, one as a layout guide.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Pattern is printed and pieces are numbered.

{{whyLabel}}: Precision here makes the soldering phase much easier.

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• Trace the paper templates onto your colored glass.
• Cut each piece carefully.
• Grind the edges until they match the layout guide exactly.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All project pieces are cut, ground, and fit together like a puzzle.

{{whyLabel}}: Uniform foiling ensures uniform solder lines.

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• Foil all pieces of your suncatcher.
• Ensure the 'overlap' of the foil ends is on a straight edge, not a corner.
• Burnish thoroughly on all sides.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All project pieces are foiled and ready for flux.

{{whyLabel}}: Tacking prevents the pieces from shifting during the final soldering.

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• Apply flux to the intersections of the pieces.
• Melt a small 'tack' of solder onto each intersection.
• Check the alignment one last time.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The suncatcher is a single, rigid unit.

{{whyLabel}}: A good solder bead should be slightly raised and smooth (convex).

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• Apply flux to a full seam.
• Move the iron at a steady pace, feeding solder to create a rounded bead.
• Solder the front, flip carefully, and solder the back.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All seams are covered in smooth, silver solder.

{{whyLabel}}: Suncatchers need a secure point to hang from.

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• Use pre-tinned copper wire to form a small loop.
• Solder the loop into a seam (never just to the edge foil, as it may peel off).
• Ensure the solder joint is strong and clean.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A sturdy loop is integrated into the design.

{{whyLabel}}: Flux is acidic and will cause 'white mold' (corrosion) if not removed.

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• Scrub the piece with warm water and grease-cutting dish soap.
• Use a soft brush to get into the crevices.
• Dry completely with a lint-free cloth.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The glass and solder are squeaky clean and non-greasy.

{{whyLabel}}: Wax protects the solder from oxidation and makes the glass shine.

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• Apply a carnauba-based wax or specialized stained glass polish.
• Let it haze over for a few minutes.
• Buff to a high shine with a clean microfiber cloth.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The suncatcher is glossy and fingerprint-resistant.

{{whyLabel}}: Stained glass tools are an investment and require care to last.

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• 'Tin' the soldering iron tip with a fresh coat of solder before turning it off.
• Wipe the glass cutter head with a bit of oil.
• Empty and rinse the grinder reservoir to prevent glass sludge from hardening.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All tools are cleaned, oiled, and stored safely.