Water damage prevention

{{whyLabel}}: In an emergency, every second counts to prevent thousands of dollars in damage.

{{howLabel}}:

• Search for the valve where the main water line enters the house (usually near the water meter, in the basement, or crawlspace).
• Turn the handle (clockwise for gate valves, perpendicular for ball valves) to ensure it isn't seized.
• Attach a bright, waterproof tag so anyone in the household can find it quickly.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The valve is identified, tested, and clearly labeled.

{{whyLabel}}: Standard rubber hoses are prone to bursting under constant pressure and are a leading cause of home floods.

{{howLabel}}:

• Turn off the water supply valves behind the washing machine.
• Unscrew the old rubber hoses (have a bucket ready for residual water).
• Install reinforced braided stainless steel hoses and tighten firmly with pliers.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Both hot and cold lines are upgraded to braided steel and show no leaks.

{{whyLabel}}: Slow drips from P-traps or supply lines often go unnoticed until they cause structural rot and mold.

{{howLabel}}:

• Empty all items from cabinets under sinks in kitchens and bathrooms.
• Use a flashlight to check for dampness, water stains, or peeling contact paper.
• Run the water and feel the connections with a dry paper towel to spot tiny leaks.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All under-sink areas are dry and verified leak-free.

{{whyLabel}}: Local shut-offs for toilets and sinks often seize over time, making it impossible to stop a local leak.

{{howLabel}}:

• Gently turn the small valves under every toilet and sink to the 'off' position.
• If a valve is stuck, do not force it; apply a small amount of penetrating oil.
• If it leaks after turning, it likely needs the packing nut tightened or the valve replaced.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Every local shut-off valve in the house is functional and moves freely.

{{whyLabel}}: Clogged gutters cause water to overflow, saturating the foundation or backing up under roof shingles.

{{howLabel}}:

• Remove all debris (leaves, twigs) from gutters manually.
• Flush the system with a garden hose to ensure downspouts are clear.
• Verify that downspouts discharge water at least 5 to 10 feet away from the foundation.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Water flows freely from the roof to the designated discharge point away from the house.

{{whyLabel}}: Soil should always slope away from the house to prevent basement seepage and hydrostatic pressure.

{{howLabel}}:

• Walk the perimeter and look for low spots or soil that slopes toward the walls.
• Ensure there is at least a 6-inch drop in elevation over the first 10 feet from the foundation.
• Fill depressions with 'clean fill' dirt (not mulch, which absorbs water).

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The ground consistently slopes away from the foundation on all sides.

{{whyLabel}}: Damaged shingles or loose flashing around chimneys are the primary entry points for attic leaks.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use binoculars from the ground or a ladder to look for curled, cracked, or missing shingles.
• Check the metal flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights for gaps or rust.
• Look for 'granule loss' in gutters, which indicates shingles are reaching the end of their life.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A visual inspection is completed and any damaged areas are marked for repair.

{{whyLabel}}: Cracked or missing caulk allows driving rain to enter wall cavities, causing hidden rot.

{{howLabel}}:

• Inspect the perimeter of all windows and doors for gaps in the sealant.
• Remove old, brittle caulk with a scraper.
• Apply a fresh bead of high-quality exterior-grade silicone or polyurethane caulk.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All exterior openings are sealed with a continuous bead of caulk.

{{whyLabel}}: A failed sump pump during a storm leads to immediate basement flooding.

{{howLabel}}:

• Pour a bucket of water into the sump pit to trigger the float switch.
• Confirm the pump activates and clears the water quickly.
• If you have a battery backup, unplug the main pump to ensure the backup takes over.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The pump successfully cycles and the discharge line is clear.

{{whyLabel}}: Water heaters typically last 8-12 years; rust at the base or connections signals imminent failure.

{{howLabel}}:

• Check the top connections for 'weeping' or white mineral crust.
• Inspect the bottom of the tank for rust flakes or dampness.
• Ensure the Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valve discharge pipe is not dripping.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The tank is confirmed sound or a replacement is scheduled if over 10 years old.

{{whyLabel}}: Algae buildup can clog the line, causing water to overflow into your furnace or floor.

{{howLabel}}:

• Locate the PVC drain line near the indoor AC unit.
• Pour one cup of distilled white vinegar down the access point to kill algae and mold.
• Ensure the water is flowing out of the exterior exit point.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The line is treated and water flows freely to the exterior.

{{whyLabel}}: Plastic water lines can become brittle and crack, leaking behind the fridge where it's hard to see.

{{howLabel}}:

• Carefully pull the refrigerator away from the wall.
• Inspect the plastic or copper line for kinks or moisture.
• Ensure the filter is seated correctly and the housing is dry.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The connection is dry and the line is unkinked.

{{whyLabel}}: Sensors provide 24/7 monitoring and alert your phone the moment moisture is detected.

{{howLabel}}:

• Purchase a set of Wi-Fi or Zigbee leak sensors.
• Place them on the floor near high-risk areas: water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, and under the kitchen sink.
• Test each sensor by touching it with a damp cloth to ensure the notification works.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Sensors are active and successfully send a test alert to your mobile device.

{{whyLabel}}: High water pressure (above 80 psi) stresses pipes and joints, leading to premature leaks.

{{howLabel}}:

• Screw a water pressure gauge onto an outside hose bib.
• Ensure no water is running inside the house and open the faucet fully.
• If the reading is above 75-80 psi, your Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) may need adjustment or replacement.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Static water pressure is confirmed to be between 40 and 60 psi.

{{whyLabel}}: Having information ready prevents panic and speeds up the recovery process.

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• List the phone numbers for a 24-hour plumber, your insurance agent, and a water restoration company.
• Include a photo or diagram of where the main shut-off is located.
• Post the sheet inside a kitchen cabinet or near the water heater.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The contact sheet is printed and visible to all household members.