Wildfire preparation home

{{whyLabel}}: Dry leaves and pine needles in gutters are the primary fuel for wind-blown embers that ignite homes.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use a sturdy ladder and gutter scoop to remove all organic material.
• Flush gutters with a hose to ensure no fine sediment remains.
• Check roof valleys and behind chimneys where debris often accumulates.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Roof and gutters are completely clear of all combustible organic material.

{{whyLabel}}: Wood mulch acts as a fuse, carrying fire directly to your home's siding or vents.

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• Rake away all wood chips, bark, or pine needles in the 0-5ft zone.
• Replace with non-combustible materials like gravel, river rock, or pavers.
• Ensure no plants are touching the home's exterior walls.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A 5-foot perimeter of non-combustible ground cover is established around the entire house.

{{whyLabel}}: Embers can enter attic and crawlspace vents, igniting the home from the inside.

{{howLabel}}:

• Measure all attic, soffit, and foundation vents.
• Purchase non-combustible, corrosion-resistant metal mesh (1/8 inch or smaller).
• Secure mesh over vents using a staple gun or screws; avoid plastic or fiberglass mesh which melts.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All exterior vents are covered with 1/8-inch metal mesh.

{{whyLabel}}: Embers often swirl and collect under elevated structures, igniting the wood from below.

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• Remove all stored items (boxes, wood, tools) from under decks.
• Rake out leaves, needles, and trash.
• Consider screening the underside with 1/8-inch metal mesh to prevent future accumulation.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The area under all decks and porches is empty and free of debris.

{{whyLabel}}: Firewood is a high-intensity fuel source that can create sustained flames against your home.

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• Relocate all firewood stacks to Zone 2 (at least 30 feet from the house).
• Clear a 10-foot radius of bare soil or gravel around the new wood pile location.
• Cover the pile with a fire-resistant tarp if available.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: No firewood is stored within 30 feet of any building.

{{whyLabel}}: These are highly flammable items that sit directly against the home and can be ignited by a single ember.

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• Store cushions in a metal box or inside the garage during high-risk periods.
• Replace natural fiber doormats (like coir) with non-combustible rubber or metal versions.
• Move wooden patio furniture at least 10 feet away from the house when fire risk is high.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Flammable exterior accessories are removed or replaced with fire-resistant options.

{{whyLabel}}: Fire can climb from the ground into the siding if there is no gap.

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• Ensure there is at least 6 inches of concrete, brick, or bare soil between the ground and the start of your siding.
• Trim back any siding that touches the ground if possible, or clear away soil to create the gap.
• This prevents embers from igniting the bottom edge of the wall.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A 6-inch vertical gap exists between the ground and combustible siding around the home.

{{whyLabel}}: Wooden fences act as a fuse, leading fire directly to the structure.

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• Identify where wooden fences attach to the house.
• Replace the first 5 feet of the fence with a non-combustible gate or section (metal or masonry).
• This creates a "fire break" that stops the fence from carrying flames to the siding.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A 5-foot non-combustible section is installed where any fence meets the house.

{{whyLabel}}: Tall, dry grass allows fire to move rapidly across the landscape.

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• Mow all grass within 100 feet of the home.
• Ensure the mower blade is set to 4 inches to prevent "scalping" which can cause sparks on rocks.
• Bag and remove the clippings to reduce fuel load.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All grass within 100 feet is consistently maintained at 4 inches or less.

{{whyLabel}}: Removing low branches prevents "ladder fuels" from carrying a ground fire into the tree canopy.

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• Use a pole saw or loppers to remove branches up to 10 feet high (or 1/3 of the tree's height for smaller trees).
• Focus on trees within 30 feet of the house first.
• Dispose of the cut branches immediately by chipping or hauling away.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All trees within 100 feet have no branches within 6-10 feet of the ground.

{{whyLabel}}: Adequate spacing prevents fire from jumping from one tree top to another.

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• Measure the distance between the outermost branches (canopies) of adjacent trees.
• Within 30 feet of the house, aim for 18 feet of horizontal space.
• Between 30-100 feet, aim for at least 12 feet of space.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Tree canopies are thinned to meet recommended horizontal spacing guidelines.

{{whyLabel}}: Dead vegetation has zero moisture and ignites instantly, producing high heat.

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• Walk the property and identify brown, brittle, or diseased plants.
• Cut down dead trees and pull up dead shrubs.
• Clear out dead leaves and needles that have accumulated inside living shrubs.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All dead vegetation is removed from the 100-foot defensible space.

{{whyLabel}}: Propane tanks can explode if surrounded by burning vegetation.

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• Remove all grass, weeds, and debris within 10 feet of any LPG tank.
• Scrape the area down to bare mineral soil or cover with gravel.
• Ensure no flammable materials (like wood piles) are stored near the tank.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A 10-foot clear buffer of bare soil or gravel exists around all fuel tanks.

{{whyLabel}}: Continuous rows of shrubs act as a path for fire to reach your home.

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• Break up large groups of shrubs into small "islands."
• Ensure a distance of at least 2x the height of the shrub between clusters.
• Remove any shrubs located directly under tree canopies to eliminate ladder fuels.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Shrubs are separated into distinct clusters with clear space between them.

{{whyLabel}}: Overhanging branches drop debris on the roof and can ignite the structure directly.

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• Identify any branches within 10 feet of the roof line or chimney.
• Cut these branches back to the trunk or a main lateral branch.
• Ensure a clear vertical column above the roof surface.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: No tree branches are within 10 feet of the roof or chimney.

{{whyLabel}}: Ignited outbuildings can radiate enough heat to catch the main house on fire.

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• Apply Zone 0 and Zone 1 principles to all sheds, barns, and detached garages.
• Clear a 10-foot perimeter of all flammable vegetation around these structures.
• Ensure outbuildings are not used to store excessive flammable liquids near the house.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All outbuildings have their own defensible space buffer.

{{whyLabel}}: The roof is the most vulnerable surface; Class A materials (asphalt, metal, tile) are essential for survival.

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• Check your home's records or consult a roofer to confirm the rating.
• Look for gaps in tiles or shingles where embers could enter; seal these with non-combustible flashing.
• If the roof is wood shake, prioritize a full replacement with Class A materials.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Roof rating is confirmed as Class A and all gaps are sealed.

{{whyLabel}}: Gutter guards prevent the accumulation of flammable debris, reducing maintenance and risk.

{{howLabel}}:

• Choose non-combustible metal mesh gutter guards (avoid plastic ones).
• Install according to manufacturer instructions, ensuring a tight fit against the roof edge.
• This prevents embers from landing in a bed of dry leaves inside the gutter.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All gutters are fitted with non-combustible metal guards.

{{whyLabel}}: Single-pane windows break easily under heat, allowing fire to enter the home.

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• Identify any single-pane windows, especially those facing heavy vegetation.
• Replace with dual-pane windows where at least one pane is tempered glass.
• Tempered glass is significantly more resistant to the radiant heat of a wildfire.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Vulnerable windows are upgraded to dual-pane tempered glass.

{{whyLabel}}: Open eaves can trap heat and embers, leading to attic fires.

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• Inspect eaves for any gaps larger than 1/8 inch.
• Use non-combustible caulk or metal flashing to seal openings.
• Consider "boxing in" open eaves with fiber-cement board for maximum protection.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All eave and soffit gaps are sealed or boxed in with non-combustible material.

{{whyLabel}}: Embers can blow under or around garage doors, igniting stored items inside.

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• Check the seal at the bottom and sides of the garage door.
• Install heavy-duty, fire-resistant weather stripping to eliminate gaps.
• Ensure the door closes tightly against the floor.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Garage door is fully sealed against ember intrusion.

{{whyLabel}}: The bottom of the wall is most likely to be hit by ground flames or embers.

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• If you have wood siding, consider replacing the bottom 2-3 feet with fiber-cement or stone veneer.
• This creates a "splash zone" that won't ignite from ground fire.
• Ensure the transition between materials is properly flashed to prevent water damage.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The lower portion of vulnerable walls is protected by non-combustible material.

{{whyLabel}}: Prevents embers from escaping your fireplace and igniting the roof or nearby trees.

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• Purchase a stainless steel spark arrester with a mesh size between 3/8 and 1/2 inch.
• Securely attach it to the top of the chimney flue.
• Ensure it is cleared of soot and creosote annually.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A compliant spark arrester is installed on all chimney outlets.

{{whyLabel}}: Enclosing the area under a deck prevents embers and debris from ever getting underneath.

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• Use 1/8-inch metal mesh or fiber-cement boards to wall in the perimeter of the deck.
• Ensure there is still adequate ventilation to prevent wood rot.
• This is the most effective way to protect a wooden deck from ground-up ignition.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All decks are enclosed with fire-resistant materials.

{{whyLabel}}: You may have only minutes to leave; having essentials ready ensures survival and comfort.

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• Include 3 days of water (3 gallons/person) and non-perishable food.
• Pack prescriptions, a first aid kit, a flashlight, and a battery-powered radio.
• Add a change of clothes, sturdy shoes, and copies of IDs/insurance papers.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Each family member has a packed bag ready by the exit.

{{whyLabel}}: Wildfires can block primary roads; you must have a secondary way out.

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• Identify the main exit from your neighborhood and one alternative route.
• Drive both routes to check for narrow points or potential hazards.
• Print a physical map of these routes in case GPS/cell service fails.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Two routes are mapped, practiced, and printed.

{{whyLabel}}: Early warning is the difference between a calm evacuation and a life-threatening one.

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• Find your county's emergency notification system (e.g., CodeRED, Nixle).
• Register all family cell phone numbers and email addresses.
• Enable "Emergency Alerts" in your smartphone settings.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All family members are registered for local emergency notifications.

{{whyLabel}}: Family members may be in different locations when an evacuation is ordered.

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• Designate an out-of-area contact person everyone can call to check in.
• Pick a meeting location outside the fire hazard zone.
• Ensure everyone has the contact numbers written down, not just in their phones.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A written plan is shared and understood by all family members.

{{whyLabel}}: Physical documents are easily lost in a fire; digital copies ensure you can rebuild your life.

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• Scan birth certificates, deeds, insurance policies, and tax records.
• Store them on a password-protected USB drive in your Go Bag and in a secure cloud service.
• Take photos of all rooms and high-value items for insurance purposes.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All critical documents are backed up digitally and accessible remotely.

{{whyLabel}}: Pets are often overlooked in the chaos; they need their own supplies to stay safe.

{{howLabel}}:

• Pack a 3-day supply of pet food, water, and bowls.
• Include a leash, carrier, and copies of vaccination records.
• Ensure pets have collars with up-to-date ID tags and microchip info.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A dedicated pet emergency kit is ready and located near the Go Bags.

{{whyLabel}}: Shutting off gas and electricity can prevent secondary fires or explosions.

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• Find the main gas valve, electrical breaker box, and water main.
• Label them clearly with bright tape or tags.
• Keep a wrench near the gas meter if a tool is required to turn the valve.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All utility shut-offs are identified, labeled, and accessible.

{{whyLabel}}: Stress reduces cognitive function; muscle memory ensures you don't forget essentials.

{{howLabel}}:

• Set a timer for 10 minutes.
• Have everyone grab their Go Bags, pets, and load the car.
• Identify any bottlenecks or forgotten items and adjust the plan.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: The family can successfully exit the home with all essentials in under 10 minutes.

{{whyLabel}}: 'Actual Cash Value' only pays depreciated worth, which is often not enough to rebuild.

{{howLabel}}:

• Call your agent and confirm you have 'Extended Replacement Cost' or 'Guaranteed Replacement Cost.'
• Ensure the policy limits reflect current local construction costs (which rise over time).
• Check for 'Law and Ordinance' coverage to pay for required building code upgrades.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Insurance policy is confirmed to cover full rebuilding costs at current rates.

{{whyLabel}}: Debris accumulates constantly; a one-time cleaning is not enough for year-round safety.

{{howLabel}}:

• Set calendar reminders for late spring (before fire season) and late autumn.
• Inspect for any loose shingles or damaged vent screens during these cleanings.
• Remove any bird nests or pest debris from eaves.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Recurring maintenance dates are set in a digital calendar.

{{whyLabel}}: You may need water for small spot fires or to wet down the Zone 0 perimeter.

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• Ensure you have enough garden hose to reach all sides of the house.
• Check that outdoor faucets are leak-free and have high pressure.
• If you have a pool or tank, consider a portable gas-powered water pump.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All hoses and faucets are functional and reach the entire home perimeter.

{{whyLabel}}: Proving what you owned is the hardest part of an insurance claim after a total loss.

{{howLabel}}:

• Use your phone to record a slow walkthrough of every room, opening every drawer and closet.
• Narrate the video with brand names and approximate purchase dates for electronics/appliances.
• Upload the video to a secure cloud drive immediately.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A complete video inventory is stored securely in the cloud.

{{whyLabel}}: Food expires, batteries leak, and children outgrow clothes.

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• Set a fixed date (e.g., the start of Daylight Savings) to open all Go Bags.
• Replace expired food and water; check battery levels in flashlights/radios.
• Update medications and ensure clothing still fits all family members.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: All emergency kits are refreshed and ready for another year.

{{whyLabel}}: Wildfire doesn't stop at property lines; a prepared neighborhood is safer for everyone.

{{howLabel}}:

• Share your evacuation plan with immediate neighbors.
• Identify elderly or disabled neighbors who may need help evacuating.
• Discuss clearing shared property lines or vacant lots of heavy brush.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: At least two neighbors have exchanged emergency contact info and plans.