Biodiversity backyard help

{{whyLabel}}: Understanding the concept of 'Homegrown National Park' is essential to shift your mindset from traditional gardening to ecosystem stewardship.

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• Focus on the chapters regarding 'Keystone Plants'.
• Take notes on the 70% native plant rule.
• Identify how your specific yard fits into the larger local corridor.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Book is finished and key principles are noted for your plan.

{{whyLabel}}: Biodiversity depends on placing the right plant in the right microclimate to ensure survival and health.

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• Observe your yard at 9 AM, 12 PM, and 4 PM.
• Sketch a rough map marking areas of full sun (6+ hours), partial shade, and full shade.
• Note 'wet spots' where water naturally collects after rain.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A physical or digital map exists showing light and moisture zones.

{{whyLabel}}: Native plants are highly adapted to specific soil types; planting an acid-loving plant in alkaline soil leads to failure.

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• Use a generic soil test kit to determine pH levels.
• Perform a 'ribbon test' by wetting soil and squeezing it to identify if it's clay, silt, or sand.
• Check drainage by digging a hole, filling it with water, and timing how long it takes to empty.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: You know your soil pH and texture (e.g., 'Alkaline Clay').

{{whyLabel}}: Invasive plants provide little food for local insects and outcompete the native species you want to support.

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• Use a free identification app like iNaturalist or Seek.
• Look specifically for common invaders like English Ivy, Japanese Knotweed, or Privet (depending on region).
• Mark these on your garden map for removal.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A list of plants to be removed is created.

{{whyLabel}}: Chemicals are non-selective and kill the very pollinators and soil microbes you are trying to attract.

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• Dispose of old chemicals at a local hazardous waste facility.
• Switch to mechanical weeding or 'lasagna mulching' for weed control.
• Accept 'imperfections' like aphids, which serve as food for ladybugs and birds.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: No synthetic chemicals are present or used in the garden.

{{whyLabel}}: Hedgehogs need to travel up to 2km a night; solid fences act as lethal barriers to their foraging and mating.

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• Locate a spot at the base of your fence.
• Cut a 13cm (5 inch) square hole using a jigsaw or hand saw.
• Sand the edges to ensure they are smooth and safe.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A clear passage exists for small mammals to enter and exit.

{{whyLabel}}: Water is the single most effective way to increase biodiversity, attracting amphibians, insects, and birds.

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• Dig a hole at least 60-80cm deep in the center to prevent total freezing.
• Ensure at least one side has a very gentle slope (beach) for animals to climb out.
• Line with a non-toxic butyl rubber liner and fill with rainwater if possible.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A functioning pond is installed and filled with water.

{{whyLabel}}: Deadwood is a critical habitat for beetles, fungi, and amphibians that recycle nutrients back into the soil.

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• Stack untreated logs of varying sizes in a quiet, damp area.
• Partially bury some logs to provide habitat for stag beetles.
• Leave it undisturbed to allow moss and fungi to grow.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A stable pile of logs is established in the garden.

{{whyLabel}}: Solitary bees and other beneficial insects need safe nesting sites that mimic natural hollow stems.

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• Use a wooden frame filled with hollow bamboo sticks, drilled logs (2-10mm holes), and pine cones.
• Mount it in a sunny, south-facing spot at least 1 meter off the ground.
• Ensure it has a small 'roof' to keep the nesting tubes dry.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Insect hotel is mounted and visible to pollinators.

{{whyLabel}}: Keystone genera like Quercus (Oak) support hundreds of species of caterpillars, which are the primary food for baby birds.

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• Select a species native to your specific ecoregion (e.g., Quercus robur in Europe or Quercus alba in North America).
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
• Mulch with woodchips, keeping the mulch away from the trunk.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A native tree is planted and secured with a stake if necessary.

{{whyLabel}}: Traditional lawns are 'green deserts'; meadows provide nectar for bees and seeds for birds.

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• Remove turf from a 2x2m area.
• Scrape the soil to reduce fertility (wildflowers prefer poor soil).
• Sow a native seed mix containing at least 20% yellow rattle to suppress grass growth.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Seeds are sown and lightly trodden into the soil.

{{whyLabel}}: Late-season nectar is critical for migrating butterflies and bees preparing for winter.

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• Group at least 3-5 plants of the same species together to make them easier for bees to find.
• Choose native Asters and Solidago (Goldenrod) for high ecological value.
• Ensure a succession of blooms from spring to late autumn.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A dedicated bed of pollinator-friendly perennials is planted.

{{whyLabel}}: Hedges provide nesting sites, food (berries), and safe corridors for birds and small mammals.

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• Use a mix of native species like Hawthorn, Blackthorn, and Hazel.
• Plant in a double staggered row (5 plants per meter).
• Avoid 'double-flowered' varieties as they often lack accessible nectar.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A hedge line is planted and mulched.

{{whyLabel}}: Composting recycles nutrients and provides a home for worms and slow-worms.

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• Set up a generic compost bin or a simple wooden pallet enclosure.
• Mix 'greens' (grass clippings, veg scraps) with 'browns' (cardboard, dry leaves).
• Avoid turning the pile too often to protect hibernating wildlife.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: A functioning compost pile is active.

{{whyLabel}}: Leaf litter is a vital overwintering habitat for many butterfly and moth pupae.

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• Instead of bagging leaves, rake them into your garden beds as a free mulch.
• Leave a layer at least 5cm thick to insulate the soil and protect ground-nesting bees.
• Only remove leaves from paths or lawns where they might cause slipping.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Garden beds are covered with natural leaf mulch.

{{whyLabel}}: Bright white/blue light disrupts the circadian rhythms of nocturnal insects and bats.

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• Replace existing outdoor bulbs with 'warm' LEDs (under 3000K).
• Use motion sensors so lights are only on when needed.
• Ensure lights are shielded and point downwards to reduce light pollution.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: Outdoor lighting is wildlife-friendly and minimized.

{{whyLabel}}: Monitoring helps you see the impact of your changes and contributes to global biodiversity data.

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• Download the iNaturalist app.
• Take clear photos of insects, birds, and plants in your yard.
• Upload them to see what species are utilizing your new habitats.

{{doneWhenLabel}}: 10 unique observations are logged in the app.