Board game design hobby
How do I design and prototype my own board game?
Projekt-Plan
Why: The core loop is the repetitive sequence of actions that forms the heartbeat of your game.
How:
- Identify the 3-5 primary actions a player takes every turn (e.g., Draw, Move, Attack).
- Ensure these actions directly lead to the game's winning condition.
- Write this loop down in three sentences or less.
Done when: You have a clear, written description of what a player does on a typical turn.
Why: Mechanics are the building blocks that provide structure to your theme.
How:
- Choose one 'anchor' mechanic from 'Building Blocks of Tabletop Game Design' by Geoffrey Engelstein (e.g., Worker Placement, Deck Building, or Area Control).
- Avoid 'feature creep' by sticking to one main mechanic for your first design.
- Map out how this mechanic interacts with your core loop.
Done when: One primary mechanic is chosen and documented as the game's foundation.
Why: Designing for the player's experience ensures the game is engaging, not just functional.
How:
- Read the 'Lens of the Player' chapter in 'The Art of Game Design' by Jesse Schell.
- Ask yourself: 'What is the most exciting moment for the player?'
- Adjust your concept to highlight that specific feeling (e.g., tension, triumph, or discovery).
Done when: You have a list of 3 'emotional goals' for your players.
Why: A concise document keeps your vision focused during the messy prototyping phase.
How:
- Include: Title (working), Player Count (start with 2-4), Duration (aim for 30-60 mins), and the 'Hook' (what makes it unique).
- List the winning conditions clearly.
- Keep it to a single page to avoid over-complicating the initial idea.
Done when: A one-page summary of your game concept is completed.
Why: Having generic components ready allows you to iterate quickly without waiting for custom parts.
How:
- Gather index cards, card sleeves, and a permanent marker.
- Source generic 'meeples', wooden cubes, and multi-sided dice (d6, d10, d20).
- Use 'blank' components so you aren't afraid to write on them or throw them away.
Done when: You have a box containing enough basic components to build a full game.
Why: The MVP is the ugliest, fastest version of your game used to test the core fun.
How:
- Scrawl card names and basic stats on index cards with a marker.
- Use a piece of poster board or taped-together paper for the board.
- Focus 100% on functionality; do NOT draw art or use fancy fonts yet.
Done when: A playable (though ugly) version of the game is on the table.
Why: Solo testing catches 80% of mechanical breaks before you waste a playtester's time.
How:
- Play the game as two or three different players, making the best move for each.
- Use 'selective amnesia'—don't let Player A's knowledge influence Player B's turn.
- Note where the game 'stalls' or where rules feel ambiguous.
Done when: You have completed one full game session by yourself.
Why: Even for early tests, you need a reference to ensure consistency.
How:
- Write down the Setup, Turn Sequence, and End Game conditions in bullet points.
- Keep it under 2 pages.
- Use bold text for key terms to make them easy to find during play.
Done when: A printed or handwritten set of basic rules is ready for the first playtest.
Why: Friends provide a safe environment to see how others interpret your mechanics.
How:
- Explain the rules clearly but let them play without your interference.
- Watch their faces: Where do they look bored? Where do they look excited?
- Ask: 'What was the most frustrating part?' rather than 'Did you like it?'
Done when: You have notes from a playtest with at least two other people.
Why: Math ensures that no single strategy or card is objectively better than others.
How:
- Use Google Sheets or Excel to list every card/action and its 'cost' vs 'benefit'.
- Calculate the 'Value per Action' (e.g., if 1 Gold = 1 Point, a card costing 2 Gold should give roughly 2 Points).
- Look for outliers (cards that are too cheap for their power).
Done when: A spreadsheet exists containing the stats of all game components.
Why: Small tweaks are often hard to notice; drastic changes reveal the 'sweet spot' faster.
How:
- If a mechanic feels too weak, double its power/value. If too strong, cut it in half.
- Observe the impact in the next playtest. It is much easier to dial back from an extreme than to find a 5% difference.
- Document the 'before' and 'after' values.
Done when: You have adjusted at least three major values using this method.
Why: Beginners often add too many rules; professional games are refined by what is removed.
How:
- Identify any rule that players constantly forget or ask about.
- Remove one mechanic that isn't essential to the core loop.
- If the game still works without it, leave it out permanently.
Done when: The rulebook is shorter and the game flow is faster than the previous version.
Why: Consistent layout (UI/UX) helps players process information faster.
How:
- Use Inkscape (free/open-source) to create a standard card layout.
- Place the 'Cost' in the top left and 'Effect' text in the center.
- Use high-contrast colors and clear, sans-serif fonts (e.g., Roboto or Open Sans).
Done when: You have a digital template for your game's cards.
Why: Manually updating 100 cards is soul-crushing; automation saves hundreds of hours.
How:
- Connect your balancing spreadsheet to Dextrous.com.au (or use nanDECK).
- Map the spreadsheet columns to your card template fields.
- Generate all cards at once whenever you change a value in the spreadsheet.
Done when: A full deck of cards is generated digitally from your spreadsheet data.
Why: A rulebook is the 'teacher' that comes in the box; it must be foolproof.
How:
- Follow the standard structure: Components, Goal, Setup, Turn Structure, End Game.
- Include 'Examples of Play' for complex interactions.
- Use diagrams or screenshots of your prototype to illustrate setup.
Done when: A complete, formatted PDF rulebook is finished.
Why: This is the ultimate test to see if your game can survive without you explaining it.
How:
- Give a group of strangers your prototype and rulebook.
- Sit nearby but do NOT speak, even if they play wrong.
- Take notes on where they get stuck in the rules. This is your 'to-fix' list.
Done when: A group has completed the game using only the provided materials.
Why: A sell sheet is a one-page marketing tool used to pitch to publishers or show at conventions.
How:
- Include a high-quality photo of the game set up.
- List: Player count, Age, Time, and a '3-sentence pitch'.
- Highlight the 'Unique Selling Point' (USP) clearly.
Done when: A professional one-page PDF sell sheet is ready.
Why: Digital prototypes allow for global playtesting and are often required by modern publishers.
How:
- Export your card sheets and board as PNGs.
- Use the 'TTS Deck Builder' tool (included with the game) to create card files.
- Import assets into a TTS 'Custom' object and save the workshop mod.
Done when: Your game is playable online via Tabletop Simulator.
Why: Having a high-quality physical copy is essential for final testing and conventions.
How:
- Upload your final assets to a Print-on-Demand service like 'The Game Crafter' or 'MakePlayingCards'.
- Select standard component sizes (e.g., Poker cards, 18mm cubes) to keep costs down.
- Review the digital proofs carefully before clicking 'Order'.
Done when: A professional-grade prototype is ordered and on its way.