Home inspection checklist
What should I look for during a home inspection before buying?
Projekt-Plan
Why: Buying a home often involves immediate hidden costs; having a dedicated fund prevents financial strain after closing.
How:
- Calculate 1% to 3% of the home's purchase price as a 'contingency fund'.
- Separate this amount from your down payment and closing costs.
- Use this budget to prioritize safety-critical repairs found during inspection.
Done when: [A specific dollar amount is set aside in a savings account].
Why: Having the right tools allows you to spot issues that are invisible to the naked eye, such as moisture or faulty wiring.
How:
- Pack a high-lumen LED flashlight for dark corners and attics.
- Include a non-contact voltage tester or a GFCI outlet tester.
- Bring a digital moisture meter to check for hidden leaks behind drywall.
- Carry a notepad or tablet to document every finding with photos.
Done when: [Toolkit is packed and ready for the walkthrough].
Why: Poor grading is the leading cause of basement dampness and foundation failure.
How:
- Check that the ground slopes away from the foundation (at least 6 inches of drop over 10 feet).
- Look for 'spongy' soil or standing water near the walls.
- Ensure downspouts extend at least 5 feet away from the house.
Done when: [The exterior grading and drainage status are documented].
Why: A roof replacement is one of the most expensive home repairs, often costing $10,000 to $30,000.
How:
- Use binoculars to look for curled, missing, or 'bald' shingles (loss of granules).
- Check for rusted flashing around chimneys and vents.
- Inspect gutters for sagging, leaks, or excessive debris buildup.
Done when: [Roof age and condition are noted in the checklist].
Why: Structural repairs are critical 'deal-breakers' that can compromise the entire building's safety.
How:
- Look for horizontal cracks or 'stair-step' cracks in brickwork, which indicate serious shifting.
- Check for vertical hairline cracks (often normal settling) vs. cracks wider than 1/4 inch.
- Inspect for 'efflorescence' (white powdery residue), which indicates chronic water intrusion.
Done when: [Foundation integrity is visually verified and recorded].
Why: Sticking doors or failed window seals indicate either foundation movement or high energy loss.
How:
- Open and close every window to ensure smooth operation and functional locks.
- Check for 'fogging' between double-pane glass, which signals a broken seal.
- Verify that doors stay in place when half-open (if they swing, the house may be unlevel).
Done when: [All windows and doors have been tested].
Why: Water damage leads to mold and rot, which are often hidden behind fresh paint.
How:
- Look for yellow or brown staining on ceilings, especially under bathrooms.
- Use your moisture meter on any suspicious spots or 'bubbling' paint.
- Check the corners of rooms for musty odors or dark spots (mold signs).
Done when: [All interior surfaces are scanned for water intrusion].
Why: Proper insulation (R-49 to R-60 in modern standards) significantly reduces utility bills and prevents ice dams.
How:
- Measure the depth of the insulation (should be 15-20 inches deep for modern efficiency).
- Look for blocked soffit vents that prevent air circulation.
- Check for signs of pests (droppings, chewed wires) or daylight through the roof boards.
Done when: [Attic condition and insulation depth are documented].
Why: These areas are the most common sources of mold and structural rot.
How:
- Check for damp smells or visible standing water.
- Inspect wooden floor joists for 'softness' or wood-destroying insect damage.
- Verify that the sump pump (if present) triggers when the float is lifted.
Done when: [Basement/crawlspace is confirmed dry and structurally sound].
Why: Outdated panels (like Federal Pacific or Zinsco) are fire hazards and may be uninsurable.
How:
- Check the main breaker for amperage (100A is minimum, 200A is preferred for modern homes).
- Look for 'double-tapped' breakers (two wires in one slot) or charred wires.
- Verify that all circuits are clearly labeled.
Done when: [Panel capacity and safety status are recorded].
Why: Future-proofing your home now saves thousands in electrical upgrades later.
How:
- Check for a 240V outlet in the garage or space in the panel for a 50A breaker.
- Locate the central 'hub' for internet wiring (Cat6 cabling is the 2025 standard).
- Identify if smart thermostats or doorbells are hardwired or battery-operated.
Done when: [Modern infrastructure readiness is assessed].
Why: HVAC systems last 15-20 years; knowing the age helps you plan for a $5,000+ replacement.
How:
- Locate the manufacture date on the unit's nameplate.
- Turn on the heat and A/C to ensure they respond within 5 minutes.
- Check the air filter; a filthy filter suggests poor maintenance of the entire system.
Done when: [HVAC age and operational status are confirmed].
Why: Hidden leaks or outdated pipe materials (like polybutylene) can lead to catastrophic floods.
How:
- Run multiple faucets simultaneously to check for a significant drop in pressure.
- Look under every sink for active leaks or water-damaged cabinetry.
- Identify pipe material (Copper/PEX is good; Lead or Galvanized Steel needs replacement).
Done when: [Plumbing system is verified leak-free with adequate pressure].
Why: A failing water heater can cause significant water damage if it bursts.
How:
- Check the age (average lifespan is 10-12 years).
- Look for rust at the bottom of the tank or signs of leaking at the valves.
- Ensure a 'T&P' (Temperature and Pressure) relief valve is installed and piped correctly.
Done when: [Water heater condition and age are documented].
Why: A professional has specialized tools (thermal cameras, sewer scopes) that a buyer does not.
How:
- Select an inspector certified by ASHI or InterNACHI.
- Request a sample report to ensure it includes photos and clear 'Action Items'.
- Schedule the inspection within your contract's contingency period (usually 7-10 days).
Done when: [A professional inspection is booked].
Why: Not all issues are equal; you must separate cosmetic flaws from structural or safety hazards.
How:
- Highlight 'Major Defects' (Foundation, Roof, Electrical, HVAC, Mold).
- Ignore minor 'wear and tear' items like scuffed paint or loose doorknobs.
- Ask the inspector for clarification on any 'deferred maintenance' items.
Done when: [A prioritized list of major issues is created].
Why: Findings are only useful if they lead to a price reduction or repairs paid by the seller.
How:
- Get 2-3 contractor quotes for major repairs found (e.g., a new roof).
- Ask for a 'Closing Credit' instead of repairs so you can control the quality of work.
- Focus your request on safety and structural items to increase the chance of seller approval.
Done when: [A formal negotiation document is sent to the seller's agent].