Pool opening maintenance

Why: To prevent heavy organic matter and dirty water from falling into the pool during removal.

How:

• Use a leaf blower or a soft pool brush to push dry leaves and branches off the cover.
• Use a long-handled pool rake for heavier debris.
• Avoid using sharp tools that could puncture the material.

Done when: The top of the pool cover is free of solid debris.

Why: Removing the weight of the water makes the cover manageable and prevents dirty water from contaminating the pool.

How:

• Place a submersible cover pump on the lowest point of the cover.
• Ensure the discharge hose is directed away from the pool and house foundation.
• Monitor the pump to ensure it doesn't run dry once the water is gone.

Done when: No standing water remains on the pool cover.

Why: To prevent mold and mildew growth while the cover is in storage.

How:

• Carefully pull the cover off (ideally with two people) and lay it on a flat, clean surface like a driveway.
• Scrub with a generic cover cleaner or a mild detergent and water.
• Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose.

Done when: The cover is clean, rinsed, and laid out to dry.

Why: To protect the expensive cover from rodents and UV damage during the summer.

How:

• Ensure the cover is completely dry to prevent rot.
• Fold the cover loosely (accordion style).
• Place it in a heavy-duty plastic storage bin with a lid.

Done when: The cover is dry, folded, and stored in a sealed container.

Why: To restore the flow of water between the pool and the filtration equipment.

How:

• Remove expansion plugs from the skimmers and return lines.
• Remove the 'Gizzmo' or ice compensator from the skimmer throat.
• Keep all plugs in a labeled bag for next winter.

Done when: All winter plugs are removed and stored.

Why: To allow for proper water circulation and debris collection.

How:

• Screw the directional 'eyeball' fittings back into the return ports.
• Place the skimmer baskets back into the skimmer housings.
• Ensure the weir doors (flaps) move freely.

Done when: Fittings are hand-tight and baskets are in place.

Why: To prevent air leaks (suction side) and water leaks (pressure side) which can damage the pump.

How:

• Inspect the pump lid O-ring and filter O-rings for cracks.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone-based lubricant (avoid petroleum-based products as they degrade rubber).
• Check the chlorinator O-ring if applicable.

Done when: All critical O-rings are supple and lubricated.

Why: To seal the pump, filter, and heater so they can hold water pressure.

How:

• Locate the drain plugs for the pump housing (usually 1-2), the filter tank (1), and the heater (if applicable).
• Apply Teflon tape to the threads for a better seal.
• Hand-tighten the plugs into their respective ports.

Done when: All equipment drain plugs are securely installed.

Why: The pump needs a consistent water supply to prime and circulate properly.

How:

• Place a garden hose in the pool (use a hose filter if you have high mineral content).
• Fill until the water level reaches the midpoint of the skimmer opening.
• Do not leave the hose unattended for long periods.

Done when: Water level is at the halfway mark of the skimmer.

Why: To begin the filtration and chemical distribution process without running the pump dry.

How:

• Set the multiport valve to 'Recirculate' to bypass the filter initially.
• Open the pump lid, fill the basket with water using a hose, and quickly close the lid.
• Open the air relief valve on the filter tank.
• Turn on the power; once a steady stream of water shoots from the air relief valve, close it.

Done when: Water is flowing steadily through the pump and returns.

Why: To establish a baseline before adding any chemicals.

How:

• Use a high-quality liquid DPD test kit or 7-way test strips.
• Take a sample from 18 inches below the surface, away from return jets.
• Record levels for pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid (CYA).

Done when: Baseline chemistry levels are documented.

Why: TA acts as a buffer for pH; if TA is off, pH will fluctuate wildly.

How:

• Target range: 80–120 ppm.
• To raise: Add Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda).
• To lower: Add Muriatic Acid or Sodium Bisulfate.
• Allow water to circulate for at least 4 hours before retesting.

Done when: Total Alkalinity is between 80 and 120 ppm.

Why: Proper pH ensures chlorine effectiveness and prevents skin/eye irritation.

How:

• Target range: 7.2–7.6.
• To raise: Add Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate).
• To lower: Add Muriatic Acid.
• Always add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals.

Done when: pH is stable within the 7.2–7.6 range.

Why: To kill off any bacteria, algae spores, and organic contaminants that survived the winter.

How:

• Use Calcium Hypochlorite (granular shock) or Liquid Chlorine.
• Dissolve granules in a bucket of water first (if required by manufacturer) and pour around the perimeter.
• Perform this at dusk to prevent UV rays from burning off the chlorine immediately.

Done when: Chlorine levels are temporarily elevated to 'shock' levels.

Why: Stabilizer (CYA) protects chlorine from sunlight, and algaecide provides a backup defense against blooms.

How:

• Add Cyanuric Acid to reach 30–50 ppm (pour slowly into the skimmer or use a mesh bag).
• Add a preventative dose of a non-foaming algaecide.
• Run the pump for 24 hours to circulate these fully.

Done when: CYA is at 30-50 ppm and algaecide is added.

Why: To loosen any clinging algae or dirt so the filtration system can capture it.

How:

• Use a nylon brush for vinyl/fiberglass or a stainless steel brush for plaster/concrete.
• Start at the shallow end and push debris toward the deep end drain.
• Pay extra attention to corners and behind ladders.

Done when: All surfaces have been thoroughly brushed.

Why: To remove the heavy sediment and dead algae that settled after shocking.

How:

• Connect the vacuum head to the pole and hose.
• Submerge the hose to remove air before connecting to the skimmer suction.
• Move slowly to avoid stirring up the debris.
• If the pool is very dirty, vacuum 'to waste' if your valve allows.

Done when: The pool floor is visible and free of debris.

Why: For safe entry and exit from the pool.

How:

• Inspect bolts and rubber bumpers for wear; replace if rusted or cracked.
• Slide rails into the deck anchors and tighten the bolts.
• Lubricate the bolts with a small amount of anti-seize or waterproof grease.

Done when: All deck equipment is sturdy and safely attached.

Why: To ensure the water is perfectly balanced and safe for the first swim of the season.

How:

• Retest all levels after 24–48 hours of continuous filtration.
• Ensure Free Chlorine is between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm.
• Check Calcium Hardness (target 200–400 ppm) and adjust if necessary.

Done when: All chemical parameters are within the ideal 2025/2026 safety ranges.